The items of the season according to The Times

Zip It: Why the 3/4 Zip Top Is This Season's Must-Have


Every season there's one piece that customers ask about the second they walk through the door. A couple of years ago it was the barrel-leg jean, last autumn it was the suede jacket,  and this year? It's all about the 3/4 zip top. The Times has even crowned it the item of the season

Liz

Varley  zip top
Varley - Autumn / Winter 2026

Sports Luxe: why sport inspired dressing isn't going anywhere


The 3/4 zip top's comeback is part of a much bigger picture. Athleisure stopped being a 'trend' a while ago – for most of us it's simply how we dress now. We want clothes that move with us from the school run to a meeting to dinner, without needing three outfit changes.


What's changed is that it's grown up. Sports Luxe is the polished, elevated version of athleisure: think beautiful fabrics, clean lines, gold hardware and pieces that look as good with tailoring as they do with leggings. A summer packed with big sporting moments like the World Cup gave it an extra push, and luxury houses have well and truly joined the party – Loewe teaming up with On, Jacquemus with Nike – the list goes on.


One brand I always point customers towards when they ask about Sports Luxe is Varley. It was founded in 2015 by husband-and-wife team Laura and Ben Mead, after a holiday in Santa Monica, and it's built on the idea that performance wear and everyday clothes shouldn't live in separate drawers. Their half zips are a case in point – soft knits, sporty collars and those lovely gilded zips that instantly make a casual piece feel a bit special.


A Varley zip-through is the kind of thing you'll pull on after Pilates and still be wearing (happily) at supper.

How to wear the 3/4 zip top: smart


This is where the 3/4 zip top really earns its keep. It sits in that sweet spot between too casual and too formal, so it's brilliant for the office:


  • The new work jumper. Choose a fine-gauge merino or cashmere version in navy, camel or grey, and pop a crisp white shirt collar out at the neck. Add wide-leg tailored trousers and loafers, and you're done.
  • Swap it in under a blazer. Wear it instead of a roll-neck under a sharp blazer, zip pulled down a few inches, with a fine gold chain at the neck. Polished, but nobody will think you're trying too hard.
  • Go full prep, à la Jonathan Bailey. A striped shirt underneath (tie optional!), straight-leg chinos and smart brogues. Gorgeous for autumn.
  • Take it out for the evening. Steal Miu Miu's trick and wear your zip with a satin or pleated midi skirt and pointed slingbacks or kitten heels. The contrast of sporty top and pretty skirt is so chic.

How to wear the 3/4 zip top: casual


And for weekends, it's even easier:

  • The Chanel formula. Camel zip, slouchy jeans and trainers. If you want to be a bit playful, add a red tee peeking out at the neck or a pair of red trainers.
  • Sports Luxe weekend. A Varley-style zip-through with matching joggers or your best leggings, a long wool coat over the top, chunky trainers and a baseball cap. Coffee run ready.
  • Country walk. Go for a cosy fleece version with jeans, wellies and a waxed or quilted jacket. Practical, warm and still looks like you've made an effort.

Layer, layer, layer. Over a white tee, under a trench – as the weather swings between sunshine and drizzle, the zip lets you cool down or cosy up in seconds

My quick buying tips


  • Fabric matters. Cashmere and merino for smart; cotton jersey, fleece and sweatshirting for casual.
  • Look at the zip. Gold or silver hardware instantly lifts a piece – it's often what separates Sports Luxe from gym kit.
  • Get the fit right. Slightly relaxed is the most flattering and versatile. It should skim, not cling, and sit around the hip.
  • Start with a neutral. Navy, camel, grey or cream will go with everything. Once you're hooked (and you will be), go for a colour!